The weather has been on my side the past few weekends which means everything for my city strolls. This weekend I stayed the night with some fellow au pairs but I had the day to myself and my
museumkaart. I haven't been to the Museumplein since I went to the Van Gogh Museum. I'm a bit more familiar with the city now so instead of being worried about getting lost this time I enjoyed the walk down Nieuwe Spiegelstraat and Spiegelgracht which Frommer's describes as "one of Europe's finest antiques-hunting grounds." It was warm enough for bare legs so I wore a new pencil skirt (not recommended for bike rides.) For lack of a better phrase, it was a beautiful day.
At the end of Spiegelgracht and the entrance to the Museumplein is Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum. I had to keep my camera tucked away after the security check but I made sure to take notes for you all.
Rijksmuseum
The main building has been under renovation since 2003 but all the most famous paintings of the permanent collection are on display in the Philips Wing. Appropriately titled "The Masterpieces" the exhibit provides a thorough glimpse of the Dutch Golden Age. It felt like a continuation of
what I saw in Delft at the Prinsenhof. The design and descriptions were quality and I didn't even bother keeping track of time. I had the day to myself and my love for museums.
It was organized by the following: Dutch Republic, World Power, Frans Hals, Rembrandt and his pupils, The later Rembrandt, and Johannes Vermeer.
In the 17th century, after the expulsion of Spanish rule through the Eighty Years War (1568-1648), the Netherlands became an independent state. It became a republic. The Republic of the Seven United Provinces. Then it quickly became one of the leading European nations and thus was constantly fighting with its neighbors and rivals at sea. Merchants of the Dutch Republic became very wealthy by trading abroad via the Dutch East India Company (
Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC) which operated mainly in India/Asia and the Dutch West India Company (
Geoctroyeerde Westindische Compagnie or GWIC) which operated mainly in Africa and the Caribbean. The museum had its own wealth of artifacts from this era:
· Dollhouses: One of the most interesting ways the wealthy, specifically the wives of wealthy men, showed off their success was by commissioning dollhouses. Craftsmen created miniature version of the actual house down to the smallest detail. One house on display had furniture crafted by artisans as far away as Asia.
· Silver: Paulus van Vianen and his brother Adam were the most famous Dutch silversmiths. They invented the auricular style which is thus named because it resembles the folds of an ear. Evidentially this was the exact intention because Paulus was said to have been inspired by anatomy lectures he attended while visiting Prague.
· Delftware: During the first half of the 17th century Dutch pottery consisted mostly of simple utensils painted with a lead glaze called
faience. With the powerful rise in trade abroad exquisite Chinese porcelain was imported and became fashionable. In 1657 a civil war in China disrupted trade so
faience potters in Delft began to imitate the luxury style. Eventually Delft gained a monopoly over the market by combining European and Asian elements to create a Delft style, better known as Delftware. Queen Mary II of England (aka: the Mary in
the William and Mary) was a great admirer and commissioner.
The Catholic Church was no longer able to patronize the arts in the new Dutch Republic. Instead, the rich burghers held the political power and the purse strings. In the absence of religious commissions Dutch artists were able to concentrate on new genres: landscapes, portraits, and still life. Enter Rembrandt and Vermeer. I've already discussed the latter
here so what can be said in brief about the former? Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn was an apprentice to the painter Pieter Lastman of Amsterdam. Upon completing his training Rembrandt returned to his native Leiden and shared a studio for several years with Jan Lievens. In 1631 Rembrandt settled in Amsterdam and became a prominent figure in the art scene. The Rijksmuseum has his "Night Watch" which is his most famous work and one of the largest paintings I think I've ever seen in person - 10in x 14ft 4in. It used to be even larger but had to be cut down in 1715 when it was moved from its original location to the Town Hall. The painting was made for and depicts the the Arquebusiers, a militia group thus named for their arquebus guns. One of the advantages of its size is that more people can crowd around it. One of the advantages of that is being able to get a spot close enough to examine it. My favorite effect was how the hand of the central figure, Captain Frans Banning Cocq, appears to be reaching out. As if it isn't painted on the canvas.
After my day in Delft I've been pretty eager to see Vermeer's paintings in person, which is the main reason why I decided to go to the Rijksmuseum in the first place. My eagerness finally faded with "The Little Street," "The Kitchen Maid," and "The Love Letter." "Woman Reading a Letter" was gone because it is being restored. I'll only be completely satisfied once I see "Girl with a Pearl Earring."
Museumplein
I had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes in the Museumplein. The pond was full of water and the "I Amsterdam" letters were as busy as ever with people posing for pictures. Someday I will get my photo on the 'm.' Someday and another adventure in Amsterdam.
