More pictures and text after the jump...
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Adventure in Sweden - 9.21.2010
When traveling it is always best to not have any expectations. Expectations risk disappointment and they close your mind to the full experience. There were a few places I was interested in seeing when Siv and Suzanne took me via train from Västerås to Stockholm, but I was more excited simply to just be there. Since I had no real expectations I enjoyed every moment, even when we were walking down seemingly unremarkable streets. And after the first few hours on the first day of two I think I had already decided that Stockholm is my new favorite European city, despite the fact that my heart is still so full of Florence that there are always echoes from Italy no matter how far north I go.
More pictures and text after the jump...
More pictures and text after the jump...
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Adventure in Sweden - 9.20.2010
I started day three with a jog and a runny nose. I added an extra 10 minutes on to my normal run time because I was feeling charged and I wanted to step on more crunchy leaves. After lunch Suzanne and I went shopping in the city center. By late afternoon the overcast sky had cleared and the changing leaves looked brilliant against the blue sky. So, we set off with coffee and apple pie for a little excursion to one of the islands on the lake.
Almo-Lindo
Suzanne's family owns a lake house originally built in 1906 but renovated in the early 60's and they've gone there every summer since. I'm sure the red paint looks just as picturesque in the warm weather as it does in autumn, especially while we were there because the sun was moving low on the horizon. We had our fika by the water. Suzanne gave me a tour of the house, explaining who usually slept in which rooms and what she and her sister had named them when they were younger. The king's room. The bird room. Ect. It was funny to see souvenirs from Minnesota and to see all sorts of normal Swedish things that I grew up thinking were special because they were Swedish. Here those things are just normal. Real, everyday things.
Almo-Lindo
Suzanne's family owns a lake house originally built in 1906 but renovated in the early 60's and they've gone there every summer since. I'm sure the red paint looks just as picturesque in the warm weather as it does in autumn, especially while we were there because the sun was moving low on the horizon. We had our fika by the water. Suzanne gave me a tour of the house, explaining who usually slept in which rooms and what she and her sister had named them when they were younger. The king's room. The bird room. Ect. It was funny to see souvenirs from Minnesota and to see all sorts of normal Swedish things that I grew up thinking were special because they were Swedish. Here those things are just normal. Real, everyday things.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Adventure in Sweden - 9.19.2010
After a day of planes and a night of art, music, and the chilly air of autumn I love so much, I slept late into the morning. Suzanne and her fiance Bennet shared a beautiful brunch with me. I like my Sundays lazy and slow. Sunday in Sweden was just that. A long walk. A cat nap while Suzanne and Bennet voted (it was election time.) A family dinner at Siv's. I think this first full day made me finally realize that I was actually in Sweden.
Lake Mälaren
Suzanne and her dog, Mimmi, took me down to the edge of the lake. We parked the car and explored the new boutique that had just opened in the old tulhusset (customs house.) We walked out of the harbor and roamed for well over an hour, maybe two, among the apartment buildings by the water. We crossed the red bridge to more apartments. Past an old and unused brick building. Around some old boat sheds. We paused at a lighthouse boat to peek inside and walk to the bow. At the marina, far from where we started, we turned back.
Lake Mälaren
Suzanne and her dog, Mimmi, took me down to the edge of the lake. We parked the car and explored the new boutique that had just opened in the old tulhusset (customs house.) We walked out of the harbor and roamed for well over an hour, maybe two, among the apartment buildings by the water. We crossed the red bridge to more apartments. Past an old and unused brick building. Around some old boat sheds. We paused at a lighthouse boat to peek inside and walk to the bow. At the marina, far from where we started, we turned back.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Adventure in Sweden - 09.18.2010
Traveling requires patience and preparation. I packed my suitcase the day before and I made sure I had my passport, iPod, and a warm scarf. But of course, plans including airports and airplanes rarely go smoothly. To save money I booked two flights: EasyJet from Amsterdam to London and Ryanair from London to Västerås. To fly direct from Amsterdam was too expensive.
I had to wake up around 6:30am to get dressed and get to Purmerend for the 7am train. It took about fifty minutes to get to the airport but at least I didn't have to take any transfers. I bought some breakfast first thing then discovered that my first flight was delayed by 45 minutes. All I could do was wait and try not to bite my nails about possibly missing the flight out from London. EasyJet and Ryanair are discount airlines or "busses with wings" which means there are no seat assignments and everyone lines up then rushes to board for best choice of seats. So I waited for the gate number to be posted. Then I waited in line for security. Then I waited in a tense line at the gate, everyone eager to get on ahead of the people around them.
At London Stanstead it is a maze of escalators and busy corridors to get from one of the terminal to another. And then a tram to get to the central building where one has to go through Border Control and security again even if they are taking a connecting flight. And then another tram to get to the next terminal. With all the lines and stress of getting where I needed to be on time I completely passed out on the plane to Sweden. When we landed, unloaded, and lined up to have our passports checked I felt like I was dreaming. I couldn't believe I was in Sweden. Even after Suzanne and Siv welcomed me with warm hugs in the lobby I still couldn't grasp the fact that I was in Sweden.
As we drove back to Suzanne's apartment the first thing I noticed were the trees. Tall, thick, masses of trees. The Holland that I know is flat, green pastures. Moist air, misty mornings, and canal. In Sweden the crisp air, the trees, and their leaves' faint prelude to fall immediately reminded me of Minnesota. That is when I felt safe even though I still felt like I was dreaming. That feeling of comfort and love never faded or faltered once during my stay.
Västerås Kulturnatt (Culture Night)
Fortunately, my first night in Sweden lined up perfectly with Västerås' annual culture night. Various events and activities were hosted throughout the city by all sorts of businesses, galleries, museums, and what not. It was the perfect introduction for me because we spent the night walking around the city from one place to the next.
Suzanne and I began with a local vocalist's recital of Edith Piaf songs since Edith is a favorite of mine. "Je Ne Regrette Rien" echoed in my head from then on. As we walked towards our next point of interest we stopped at Formgruppen which is a local craftsmen's shop that sells wool, ceramic, and wood creations.
Then we continued on to the new Karlsgatan which had just opened the previous weekend. We listened to Torbjörn Grass play a twelve string guitar and harp guitar. Then we wandered the gallery. I found a painting by Elsa Backlund-Celsing that I'd love to share with you but I didn't take a picture and I can't find one on the internet.
We met Siv at the Konserthusset and attempted to watch some couples doing the tango but the crowd was too large. So, we packed ourselves in line for the dance school's recital in the large auditorium. From there we marched arm in arm to listen to the Maria Choir in the warm, candlelit Domkyrka.
My first night in Sweden ended with a bang. The closing of culture night was celebrated with fire dancers in front of the town hall and fireworks from the bell tower.
I had to wake up around 6:30am to get dressed and get to Purmerend for the 7am train. It took about fifty minutes to get to the airport but at least I didn't have to take any transfers. I bought some breakfast first thing then discovered that my first flight was delayed by 45 minutes. All I could do was wait and try not to bite my nails about possibly missing the flight out from London. EasyJet and Ryanair are discount airlines or "busses with wings" which means there are no seat assignments and everyone lines up then rushes to board for best choice of seats. So I waited for the gate number to be posted. Then I waited in line for security. Then I waited in a tense line at the gate, everyone eager to get on ahead of the people around them.
At London Stanstead it is a maze of escalators and busy corridors to get from one of the terminal to another. And then a tram to get to the central building where one has to go through Border Control and security again even if they are taking a connecting flight. And then another tram to get to the next terminal. With all the lines and stress of getting where I needed to be on time I completely passed out on the plane to Sweden. When we landed, unloaded, and lined up to have our passports checked I felt like I was dreaming. I couldn't believe I was in Sweden. Even after Suzanne and Siv welcomed me with warm hugs in the lobby I still couldn't grasp the fact that I was in Sweden.
As we drove back to Suzanne's apartment the first thing I noticed were the trees. Tall, thick, masses of trees. The Holland that I know is flat, green pastures. Moist air, misty mornings, and canal. In Sweden the crisp air, the trees, and their leaves' faint prelude to fall immediately reminded me of Minnesota. That is when I felt safe even though I still felt like I was dreaming. That feeling of comfort and love never faded or faltered once during my stay.
Västerås Kulturnatt (Culture Night)
Fortunately, my first night in Sweden lined up perfectly with Västerås' annual culture night. Various events and activities were hosted throughout the city by all sorts of businesses, galleries, museums, and what not. It was the perfect introduction for me because we spent the night walking around the city from one place to the next.
Suzanne and I began with a local vocalist's recital of Edith Piaf songs since Edith is a favorite of mine. "Je Ne Regrette Rien" echoed in my head from then on. As we walked towards our next point of interest we stopped at Formgruppen which is a local craftsmen's shop that sells wool, ceramic, and wood creations.
Then we continued on to the new Karlsgatan which had just opened the previous weekend. We listened to Torbjörn Grass play a twelve string guitar and harp guitar. Then we wandered the gallery. I found a painting by Elsa Backlund-Celsing that I'd love to share with you but I didn't take a picture and I can't find one on the internet.
We met Siv at the Konserthusset and attempted to watch some couples doing the tango but the crowd was too large. So, we packed ourselves in line for the dance school's recital in the large auditorium. From there we marched arm in arm to listen to the Maria Choir in the warm, candlelit Domkyrka.
My first night in Sweden ended with a bang. The closing of culture night was celebrated with fire dancers in front of the town hall and fireworks from the bell tower.
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Adventure in Sweden: An Introduction
Tomorrow I will begin a seven day sequence of posts about my seven days in Sweden. It would be impossible for me to include every detail and much will be left out. Some unintentionally so. In order to prevent any confusion I shall set the stage.
I stayed in Västerås which is approximately 53 minutes west from Stockholm by train. It sits on the shores of Lake Mälaren which stretches all the way to the Baltic Sea. Every night, except two, I was hosted by my mother's Swedish "sister", Suzanne. I brought one suitcase. I took over five-hundred pictures. I had the time of my life.
Grandma Sue.
In order to give you a sense of what going to Sweden meant to me I shall tell you a story.*
Once upon a time in Sweden there was a girl named Greta who fell in love with a boy named Emil. Emil left Sweden for the great land of opportunity, America. Greta had to wait until she was twenty-one before she could join him. Her family was sad to see her go, especially her sister, Helga. In 1920 Greta traveled to the US all by herself and married Emil. Not too long after the birth of their first child, they bought a beautiful new house on Rose Avenue in St. Paul, Minnesota. They raised six children in that house. Five girls and one boy. One of the daughters, Susan, is my maternal grandmother.
Every three months Helga would receive a letter from Greta in the US with updates on her children and life in the US. After some time these letters began to include updates on her grandchildren. My great-grandmother Greta died barely a year after I was born. All that is left of the one time I met her, when I was too young to remember and too chubby to walk just yet, is a photograph. My mother named me after Emil by combining two female names she liked that still echoed his.
Helga also had many children. The youngest is Siv. My grandmother and Siv are cousins. While growing up Grandma Sue returned to Sweden with her parents a few times through the years to visit the branches of the family that remained in the homeland.
In 1972-1973, Siv's stepdaughter, Suzanne, lived and went to John Marshall High School with my mother. They have stayed in touch since. I met Suzanne and her son Erik, who is two years younger than me, for the first time in 2000 when they visited the US. I was twelve at the time and I don't think I had any concept of how big the world is and how small it can be at the same time. Or how it is such a blessing to have a family full of history and love. Flash forward ten years and four generations down. Emil and Greta left Sweden but Sweden never left my family. And I finally got to go "home."
*Some details are not precise. I'll have to double check my facts but this is a true story.
I stayed in Västerås which is approximately 53 minutes west from Stockholm by train. It sits on the shores of Lake Mälaren which stretches all the way to the Baltic Sea. Every night, except two, I was hosted by my mother's Swedish "sister", Suzanne. I brought one suitcase. I took over five-hundred pictures. I had the time of my life.
Grandma Sue.
In order to give you a sense of what going to Sweden meant to me I shall tell you a story.*
Once upon a time in Sweden there was a girl named Greta who fell in love with a boy named Emil. Emil left Sweden for the great land of opportunity, America. Greta had to wait until she was twenty-one before she could join him. Her family was sad to see her go, especially her sister, Helga. In 1920 Greta traveled to the US all by herself and married Emil. Not too long after the birth of their first child, they bought a beautiful new house on Rose Avenue in St. Paul, Minnesota. They raised six children in that house. Five girls and one boy. One of the daughters, Susan, is my maternal grandmother.
Every three months Helga would receive a letter from Greta in the US with updates on her children and life in the US. After some time these letters began to include updates on her grandchildren. My great-grandmother Greta died barely a year after I was born. All that is left of the one time I met her, when I was too young to remember and too chubby to walk just yet, is a photograph. My mother named me after Emil by combining two female names she liked that still echoed his.
Helga also had many children. The youngest is Siv. My grandmother and Siv are cousins. While growing up Grandma Sue returned to Sweden with her parents a few times through the years to visit the branches of the family that remained in the homeland.
In 1972-1973, Siv's stepdaughter, Suzanne, lived and went to John Marshall High School with my mother. They have stayed in touch since. I met Suzanne and her son Erik, who is two years younger than me, for the first time in 2000 when they visited the US. I was twelve at the time and I don't think I had any concept of how big the world is and how small it can be at the same time. Or how it is such a blessing to have a family full of history and love. Flash forward ten years and four generations down. Emil and Greta left Sweden but Sweden never left my family. And I finally got to go "home."
*Some details are not precise. I'll have to double check my facts but this is a true story.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
An Update and an Upcoming Adventure
I've been pretty bad about posting about life here aside from my adventures in Amsterdam. There is so much I could write about and I promise I'll make an effort to post more often. For now I have some good news to share:
Owen gives this post TWO thumbs up.
• SWEDEN On September 18th I will be leaving Holland for a week in Sweden. On Saturday morning I leave for Sweden. I will be in Sweden for a week. I've had my flights booked for just over a month and my departure is just a few days away but I still can't believe it. I am unfathomably excited for this trip for many reasons. I will be staying with my mother's second cousin once removed, Suzanne. She is the daughter of my great-grandmother's sister's daughter. I think...
My Swedish heritage has always been a part of my life. Scattered among my childhood memories is that Christmas I wore St. Lucia's wreath of candles and served coffee and buns to both sides of my family while they sang, playing with Dalarna horses with my younger brother like they were My Little Ponies, making wishes on pepparkakor cookies by placing them in my palm then pressing down (if it breaks into three pieces your wish comes true), platefuls of handmade Swedish meatballs, the intense smell of cardamon, and a calendar of Carl Larsson paintings in my grandmother's kitchen every year. As I've gotten older I've come to gain a deep appreciation for my ancestors and their journey to America. My great-grandmother got on a ship all by herself when she was only eighteen! And I love that both my grandmas have kept our family history alive.
So, to actually go to Sweden at last is surreal. I really can't think of a more perfect time in the phases of my life for me to do this.
• SHUTTERFLY All my travel pictures can now be viewed here on my sharing site at Shutterfly. The monthly MB limit on Flickr was too constraining. If I kept at it it would be a year before all my pictures made it up so I got an account at Shutterfly instead. I can upload as many photos as I want and I can organize them all fairly easily. I have started putting up pictures from my previous travels in India and Italy. Paris, London, Ireland, and Holland will be added soon. Captions will make their way onto every picture soon as well but I just couldn't wait to give you the link.
Owen gives this post TWO thumbs up.
• SWEDEN On September 18th I will be leaving Holland for a week in Sweden. On Saturday morning I leave for Sweden. I will be in Sweden for a week. I've had my flights booked for just over a month and my departure is just a few days away but I still can't believe it. I am unfathomably excited for this trip for many reasons. I will be staying with my mother's second cousin once removed, Suzanne. She is the daughter of my great-grandmother's sister's daughter. I think...
My Swedish heritage has always been a part of my life. Scattered among my childhood memories is that Christmas I wore St. Lucia's wreath of candles and served coffee and buns to both sides of my family while they sang, playing with Dalarna horses with my younger brother like they were My Little Ponies, making wishes on pepparkakor cookies by placing them in my palm then pressing down (if it breaks into three pieces your wish comes true), platefuls of handmade Swedish meatballs, the intense smell of cardamon, and a calendar of Carl Larsson paintings in my grandmother's kitchen every year. As I've gotten older I've come to gain a deep appreciation for my ancestors and their journey to America. My great-grandmother got on a ship all by herself when she was only eighteen! And I love that both my grandmas have kept our family history alive.
So, to actually go to Sweden at last is surreal. I really can't think of a more perfect time in the phases of my life for me to do this.
• SHUTTERFLY All my travel pictures can now be viewed here on my sharing site at Shutterfly. The monthly MB limit on Flickr was too constraining. If I kept at it it would be a year before all my pictures made it up so I got an account at Shutterfly instead. I can upload as many photos as I want and I can organize them all fairly easily. I have started putting up pictures from my previous travels in India and Italy. Paris, London, Ireland, and Holland will be added soon. Captions will make their way onto every picture soon as well but I just couldn't wait to give you the link.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Adventure in Amsterdam - 09.11.2010
The weather has been on my side the past few weekends which means everything for my city strolls. This weekend I stayed the night with some fellow au pairs but I had the day to myself and my museumkaart. I haven't been to the Museumplein since I went to the Van Gogh Museum. I'm a bit more familiar with the city now so instead of being worried about getting lost this time I enjoyed the walk down Nieuwe Spiegelstraat and Spiegelgracht which Frommer's describes as "one of Europe's finest antiques-hunting grounds." It was warm enough for bare legs so I wore a new pencil skirt (not recommended for bike rides.) For lack of a better phrase, it was a beautiful day.
At the end of Spiegelgracht and the entrance to the Museumplein is Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum. I had to keep my camera tucked away after the security check but I made sure to take notes for you all.
Rijksmuseum
The main building has been under renovation since 2003 but all the most famous paintings of the permanent collection are on display in the Philips Wing. Appropriately titled "The Masterpieces" the exhibit provides a thorough glimpse of the Dutch Golden Age. It felt like a continuation of what I saw in Delft at the Prinsenhof. The design and descriptions were quality and I didn't even bother keeping track of time. I had the day to myself and my love for museums.
It was organized by the following: Dutch Republic, World Power, Frans Hals, Rembrandt and his pupils, The later Rembrandt, and Johannes Vermeer.
In the 17th century, after the expulsion of Spanish rule through the Eighty Years War (1568-1648), the Netherlands became an independent state. It became a republic. The Republic of the Seven United Provinces. Then it quickly became one of the leading European nations and thus was constantly fighting with its neighbors and rivals at sea. Merchants of the Dutch Republic became very wealthy by trading abroad via the Dutch East India Company (Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC) which operated mainly in India/Asia and the Dutch West India Company (Geoctroyeerde Westindische Compagnie or GWIC) which operated mainly in Africa and the Caribbean. The museum had its own wealth of artifacts from this era:
· Dollhouses: One of the most interesting ways the wealthy, specifically the wives of wealthy men, showed off their success was by commissioning dollhouses. Craftsmen created miniature version of the actual house down to the smallest detail. One house on display had furniture crafted by artisans as far away as Asia.
· Silver: Paulus van Vianen and his brother Adam were the most famous Dutch silversmiths. They invented the auricular style which is thus named because it resembles the folds of an ear. Evidentially this was the exact intention because Paulus was said to have been inspired by anatomy lectures he attended while visiting Prague.
· Delftware: During the first half of the 17th century Dutch pottery consisted mostly of simple utensils painted with a lead glaze called faience. With the powerful rise in trade abroad exquisite Chinese porcelain was imported and became fashionable. In 1657 a civil war in China disrupted trade so faience potters in Delft began to imitate the luxury style. Eventually Delft gained a monopoly over the market by combining European and Asian elements to create a Delft style, better known as Delftware. Queen Mary II of England (aka: the Mary in the William and Mary) was a great admirer and commissioner.
The Catholic Church was no longer able to patronize the arts in the new Dutch Republic. Instead, the rich burghers held the political power and the purse strings. In the absence of religious commissions Dutch artists were able to concentrate on new genres: landscapes, portraits, and still life. Enter Rembrandt and Vermeer. I've already discussed the latter here so what can be said in brief about the former? Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn was an apprentice to the painter Pieter Lastman of Amsterdam. Upon completing his training Rembrandt returned to his native Leiden and shared a studio for several years with Jan Lievens. In 1631 Rembrandt settled in Amsterdam and became a prominent figure in the art scene. The Rijksmuseum has his "Night Watch" which is his most famous work and one of the largest paintings I think I've ever seen in person - 10in x 14ft 4in. It used to be even larger but had to be cut down in 1715 when it was moved from its original location to the Town Hall. The painting was made for and depicts the the Arquebusiers, a militia group thus named for their arquebus guns. One of the advantages of its size is that more people can crowd around it. One of the advantages of that is being able to get a spot close enough to examine it. My favorite effect was how the hand of the central figure, Captain Frans Banning Cocq, appears to be reaching out. As if it isn't painted on the canvas.
After my day in Delft I've been pretty eager to see Vermeer's paintings in person, which is the main reason why I decided to go to the Rijksmuseum in the first place. My eagerness finally faded with "The Little Street," "The Kitchen Maid," and "The Love Letter." "Woman Reading a Letter" was gone because it is being restored. I'll only be completely satisfied once I see "Girl with a Pearl Earring."
Museumplein
I had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes in the Museumplein. The pond was full of water and the "I Amsterdam" letters were as busy as ever with people posing for pictures. Someday I will get my photo on the 'm.' Someday and another adventure in Amsterdam.
At the end of Spiegelgracht and the entrance to the Museumplein is Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum. I had to keep my camera tucked away after the security check but I made sure to take notes for you all.
Rijksmuseum
The main building has been under renovation since 2003 but all the most famous paintings of the permanent collection are on display in the Philips Wing. Appropriately titled "The Masterpieces" the exhibit provides a thorough glimpse of the Dutch Golden Age. It felt like a continuation of what I saw in Delft at the Prinsenhof. The design and descriptions were quality and I didn't even bother keeping track of time. I had the day to myself and my love for museums.
It was organized by the following: Dutch Republic, World Power, Frans Hals, Rembrandt and his pupils, The later Rembrandt, and Johannes Vermeer.
In the 17th century, after the expulsion of Spanish rule through the Eighty Years War (1568-1648), the Netherlands became an independent state. It became a republic. The Republic of the Seven United Provinces. Then it quickly became one of the leading European nations and thus was constantly fighting with its neighbors and rivals at sea. Merchants of the Dutch Republic became very wealthy by trading abroad via the Dutch East India Company (Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie or VOC) which operated mainly in India/Asia and the Dutch West India Company (Geoctroyeerde Westindische Compagnie or GWIC) which operated mainly in Africa and the Caribbean. The museum had its own wealth of artifacts from this era:
· Dollhouses: One of the most interesting ways the wealthy, specifically the wives of wealthy men, showed off their success was by commissioning dollhouses. Craftsmen created miniature version of the actual house down to the smallest detail. One house on display had furniture crafted by artisans as far away as Asia.
· Silver: Paulus van Vianen and his brother Adam were the most famous Dutch silversmiths. They invented the auricular style which is thus named because it resembles the folds of an ear. Evidentially this was the exact intention because Paulus was said to have been inspired by anatomy lectures he attended while visiting Prague.
· Delftware: During the first half of the 17th century Dutch pottery consisted mostly of simple utensils painted with a lead glaze called faience. With the powerful rise in trade abroad exquisite Chinese porcelain was imported and became fashionable. In 1657 a civil war in China disrupted trade so faience potters in Delft began to imitate the luxury style. Eventually Delft gained a monopoly over the market by combining European and Asian elements to create a Delft style, better known as Delftware. Queen Mary II of England (aka: the Mary in the William and Mary) was a great admirer and commissioner.
The Catholic Church was no longer able to patronize the arts in the new Dutch Republic. Instead, the rich burghers held the political power and the purse strings. In the absence of religious commissions Dutch artists were able to concentrate on new genres: landscapes, portraits, and still life. Enter Rembrandt and Vermeer. I've already discussed the latter here so what can be said in brief about the former? Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn was an apprentice to the painter Pieter Lastman of Amsterdam. Upon completing his training Rembrandt returned to his native Leiden and shared a studio for several years with Jan Lievens. In 1631 Rembrandt settled in Amsterdam and became a prominent figure in the art scene. The Rijksmuseum has his "Night Watch" which is his most famous work and one of the largest paintings I think I've ever seen in person - 10in x 14ft 4in. It used to be even larger but had to be cut down in 1715 when it was moved from its original location to the Town Hall. The painting was made for and depicts the the Arquebusiers, a militia group thus named for their arquebus guns. One of the advantages of its size is that more people can crowd around it. One of the advantages of that is being able to get a spot close enough to examine it. My favorite effect was how the hand of the central figure, Captain Frans Banning Cocq, appears to be reaching out. As if it isn't painted on the canvas.
After my day in Delft I've been pretty eager to see Vermeer's paintings in person, which is the main reason why I decided to go to the Rijksmuseum in the first place. My eagerness finally faded with "The Little Street," "The Kitchen Maid," and "The Love Letter." "Woman Reading a Letter" was gone because it is being restored. I'll only be completely satisfied once I see "Girl with a Pearl Earring."
Museumplein
I had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes in the Museumplein. The pond was full of water and the "I Amsterdam" letters were as busy as ever with people posing for pictures. Someday I will get my photo on the 'm.' Someday and another adventure in Amsterdam.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Adventure in Amsterdam - 09.04.2010
Amsterdam History Museum
Now that I have my museumkaart it is my goal to go to at least one museum in Amsterdam each time I visit the city. Last Saturday I took the train in to meet up with a fellow au pair for a sleep over and night out in the city. We weren't set to meet until 5:45 in front of Nieuwe Kerk so I went to the Amsterdam History Museum to kill some time.
I figured it would be a nice way to spend an hour or so. As I might have mentioned before, I know very little about the history of the Netherlands. The extent of my knowledge is limited to famous figures such as Vermeer, Van Gogh, and Anne Frank. After my day in Delft last weekend my historical perspective has improved and my curiosity has increased.
Well, I greatly miscalculated the size of this museum and the amount of time it would require. I stayed for two hours and I didn't get to everything. About halfway through, or what I thought was halfway, I stopped keeping track of what floor I was on or which direction I was going. I absorbed all the information up until about the eighteenth century, took some notes on specific things I found interesting, and then decided it was better that I see everything instead of taking the time to read everything. So, I made it all the way through to the 2000's and took only forty-six, mostly mediocre photos. Obviously I'll have to go back and reserve more time. The upcoming exhibit is about the fashion sense of Dutch men. I can't miss that.
It has taken me a few days to actually sit down and start this entry. I am really at a loss on where to begin in addressing the history of Amsterdam. So, I think I shall save that topic for another post. Perhaps when I visit the museum again. I do, however, have two brief lists of potential veins of inquiry that I intend to tackle for myself but you're more than welcome to take a trip over to Wikipedia on your own as well.
People of interest: Dirck Jacobsz Bas, Princess Marianne, Adriaan van der Hoop, Christian Pieter van Eeghen, Sophia Lopez Suasso-de Bruijn, and Frederik Ruysch.
Topics of interest: city orphanages, the Paalhuis, 19th century art collectors in Amsterdam, and paintings of anatomical studies/procedures.
Now that I have my museumkaart it is my goal to go to at least one museum in Amsterdam each time I visit the city. Last Saturday I took the train in to meet up with a fellow au pair for a sleep over and night out in the city. We weren't set to meet until 5:45 in front of Nieuwe Kerk so I went to the Amsterdam History Museum to kill some time.
I figured it would be a nice way to spend an hour or so. As I might have mentioned before, I know very little about the history of the Netherlands. The extent of my knowledge is limited to famous figures such as Vermeer, Van Gogh, and Anne Frank. After my day in Delft last weekend my historical perspective has improved and my curiosity has increased.
Well, I greatly miscalculated the size of this museum and the amount of time it would require. I stayed for two hours and I didn't get to everything. About halfway through, or what I thought was halfway, I stopped keeping track of what floor I was on or which direction I was going. I absorbed all the information up until about the eighteenth century, took some notes on specific things I found interesting, and then decided it was better that I see everything instead of taking the time to read everything. So, I made it all the way through to the 2000's and took only forty-six, mostly mediocre photos. Obviously I'll have to go back and reserve more time. The upcoming exhibit is about the fashion sense of Dutch men. I can't miss that.
It has taken me a few days to actually sit down and start this entry. I am really at a loss on where to begin in addressing the history of Amsterdam. So, I think I shall save that topic for another post. Perhaps when I visit the museum again. I do, however, have two brief lists of potential veins of inquiry that I intend to tackle for myself but you're more than welcome to take a trip over to Wikipedia on your own as well.
People of interest: Dirck Jacobsz Bas, Princess Marianne, Adriaan van der Hoop, Christian Pieter van Eeghen, Sophia Lopez Suasso-de Bruijn, and Frederik Ruysch.
Topics of interest: city orphanages, the Paalhuis, 19th century art collectors in Amsterdam, and paintings of anatomical studies/procedures.
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